Open Weave Tee – a recipe.
This is a recipe for a bespoke sweater… in other words there is no fit guide for each size, instead you will have to work out some math from my swatch and fit your garment as you knit, adjusting accordingly.
To make sense of how this might work for you, please read through the pattern and be prepared to try on as you go, ripping back if necessary.
Skill Level: Intermediate to advanced. Must have sweater knitting experience.
Yarn: 3 x 100g Knit by Numbers Merino by John Arbon (Double Knit weight 250m) in 3 graduating colours. I chose Dark - KBN 22, Mid - KBN 23 and Light - KBN 24.
varying lengths so that you can try on the garment as you go. US
Materials: Opening stitch markers, tapestry needle.
My Swatch Gauge: 5 stitches per inch and 6 rows per inch.
My Model size: 40 inch full bust. 5’4” Height… I am on the shorter side, so bear this in mind for lengths!
Ease: During Knit - Negative 2 inch (38 inch bust on garment). This yarn stretches during knitting and wear, so it actually fits me with some elements of positive ease. If you change needle sizes to get the correct gauge, then you may experience differences from a denser or looser fabric.
During Wear – the eases become positive as discussed, by about a couple of inches.
Sizing example: If your bust is 38 inches (2 inches smaller than model), then in theory I would cast on 10 less stitches (5 stitches per inch x -2 inches = -10 stitches). However, I ask that you try on as you go, you may find that gauge difference and shoulder/neckline body differences will see you cast on more or less stitches than suggested. Compare how each part of your garment fits to the pictures as you ty it on.
Sts – stitches
C1 – colour 1 darkest shade
C2 – colour 2 mid shade
C3 – colour 3 lightest shade
PM – Place Marker (use the removable markers)
MM – Move Marker
K – Knit
P – Purl
YO – Yarn Over
K2tog – Knit 2 together
· Cast on 120sts in C1, PM and join in the round (do not twist).
· MM, K120.
· MM, P20 (armhole), PM, P40 (front), PM, P20 (armhole), PM, P40 (back).
Eyelet repeats in C1…
· *K1, YO, (K2tog, YO) repeat between brackets until 1 stitch before marker, YO, K1, MM.* Repeat between** for each marker section until end of row.
· Repeat next row 4 times – *K1, YO, K to last stitch, YO, K1, MM*. Repeat between ** for each marker movement until end of row.
After the first repeat try on your sweater to see if your neckline sits well. If not and you need to increase or decrease your cast on. It should fit comfortably on the edge of the shoulder with an open square neck. If it is slipping off cast on less stitches, if it is too high on your shoulder, then cast on a few extra. Try to work in inches or half inches for estimate of increases and decreases, as it will be easier to mathematically work out.
· Repeat above two lines until you have 4 eyelet repeats in total.
End of armhole increases in C1…
- Knit 3 more rows as - *K1, YO, K to last stitch, YO, K1, MM*. Repeat between ** for each marker movement until end of row.
- I am now ready to finish my armholes (without casting on any underarm stitches later on). At this point try on your sweater and see if it fits. If you need longer armholes for your perfect fit, then keep increasing for a few more rows and try on again. Alternatively undo a few rows if the armholes seem too long. You are aiming for a comfortable armhole… increase too much and this will give you sleeve edges that sit too far away from your body. Not enough increases and the sweater will be too tight.
- Cast off to marker, MM, K to marker, MM, cast off to marker, MM, K to marker. Remove the markers at the end of this row. You have visible sleeves now and the body remains on the needles.
It is important to note here that getting the armhole right will affect your body width… for example;
Body (start in C1 and change where noted)…
- K to end, joining the underarms as you go. You now have a visible front and back to your sweater. PM at each underarm point so you can see the side seams for any shaping you may wish to add later and to signify the start of each row.
- K for 3 inches.
- Try on your garment… does it fit at the bust ok? Mine worked fine without casting on any extra stitches under the arm, as discussed during the armhole increases. If you have a more ample bust you may wish to undo and cast on some extra under the arm. Measure and estimate this increase in inches across the total body (in the round). Use your swatch’s stitch gauge to work out how many extra stitches you need, and then divide these in two for each armhole. This should give you an even increase across the body and for each armhole.
- *Using C2 K 1 row. Using C1 K1 row.* Repeat between ** 3 times in total and then change to C2 permanently.
- K for 7 inches.
- *Using C3 K 1 row. Using C2 K1 row.* Repeat between ** 6 times in total and then change to C3 permanently.
- K for 2.5 inches. At this point try on your sweater and see if it fits in length and lengthen if needed.
- Knit garter stitch for 3 rows and then cast off using a stretchy bind off. I used Jeny’s surprisingly stretchy bind off, available as an online video.
- Weave in all ends.
Blocking: Give your sweater a light wet block.
Thank you very much for choosing a Sara’s Texture Crafts pattern. I hope you have enjoyed the project. You can find my website at www.SarasTextureCrafts.com if you have any questions or queries.
PLEASE NOTE AS THIS IS A RECIPE I WILL NOT BE ABLE TO ANSWER SIZING QUESTIONS.
P.S. My Ravelry Pattern Shop Link - http://www.ravelry.com/designers/saras-texture-crafts